Chili Peppers: Some Like It Hotter

By Master Gardener Marianne McNiel

Harvest time is upon us! Farmers and gardeners, including myself, are extremely busy this time of year.  In my garden, the peppers are especially prolific. My peppers were a bit late to ripen. This might have been caused by the cooler weather. My husband and daughter are happy about the abundant peppers because they absolutely love hot chili peppers! I think they are a bit crazy and have some strange genetic defect of their taste buds. This year, we grew ‘Biker Billy’ jalapeño (Capsicum annuum), a hot chili pepper from Portugal and two types of habañero (Capsicum chinense ‘Habañero’): standard and ‘Caribbean Red’.  My family made two batches of hot sauce that I was afraid to try (and I grew up eating spicy food in Texas)!

Capsicum or peppers is a genus of flowering plants in the nightshade family Solanaceae. Although hot chili peppers have been eaten and used for medicinal purposes by native people in South and Central America for thousands of years, the chili pepper was first discovered by Europeans, including Columbus, in the Caribbean. These early explorers learned the flavor of this fruit was unique and spicy! The hot chili peppers that are used in Indian and Thai cuisine are also thought to originate from Central and South America.  Today, many varieties of chili peppers are available at your local farms, farm stands and markets!

It seems that hot chili peppers have become increasingly popular in our area during the last few years. This has been partly due to the efforts of Meadow View Farms and the Bowers Pepper Festival in Berks County.  If you haven’t attended this delightful event, and you are a spicy food lover like my husband and daughter, what are you waiting for?  The festival was in its 11^th year and there were almost 100 vendors from states as far away as Illinois. Of course, there is live music and a jalapeño eating contest! It is very well attended so we arrived early to beat the crowds. We bought jalapeño relish, hot mustard and pickled hot green tomatoes. We also toured Meadow View Farms where nearly 100 varieties of peppers are grown for you to pick, including some unusual varieties like the ‘Chocolate’ or black habañero that takes a long time to mature, and the Trinidad moruga scorpion (Capsicum chinense), one of the hottest peppers in the world. This scorpion pepper is so named because of its hot flavor and its little curled “tail” at the end that looks like a scorpion tail.

The “hot” taste of chili peppers is caused by chemical compounds known as capsaicinoids. Many folks have become so fascinated by hot chili peppers that it is now fashionable to argue about what pepper is actually the hottest. This led to the development of the Scoville Organoleptic Test. This test was invented by an American pharmacist Wilbur Scoville in 1912. In the test, human subjects taste a series of prepared samples to determine the heat level. The samples are diluted in the laboratory until the heat can no longer be detected by the tasters. A single unit of dilution is called a Scoville Heat Unit (SHU). This is a somewhat subjective test since it depends on the tasters and their constant exposure to hot flavor. Now, a more exact chemical analysis known as high-performance liquid chromatography can be performed, but this test is quite expensive.  Years ago, it was thought that the habañero was the hottest pepper around. Later, the ghost or bhut jolokia pepper (hybrid of mostly C. chinense with some C. frutescens genes) was ruled the hottest. The Trinadad scorpion (Capsicum chinense) was declared the hottest in 2007, but now the ‘Carolina Reaper’ (hybrid Capsicum chinense) is thought to be the hottest (according to the Guinness Book of World Records). I really don’t care which pepper is the hottest because a pickled jalapeño is about the hottest that I can stand to eat.

Chili peppers are also grown for their ornamental value and you can find them at local nurseries this time of year. They come in a variety of beautiful colors from yellow, orange, red to purple. If you buy fresh chili peppers from the market or at a farm stand you should wear gloves when handling them. The seeds are especially a problem for some people when handling. For the hottest types, I would avoid using the seeds in any sauces or dishes for normal consumption! Peppers can be frozen, canned, marinated, pickled or dried. I have attached a link to a Penn State Extension article concerning the steps for safe preservation of peppers. If you are in the mood for some hot peppers, you still may be able to get some at Meadow View Farms in Bowers. You may want to call first to determine availability. So go pick a peck of peppers for pickling!

Sources:

Origin of Domesticated Chili Peppers

http://www.sbnature.org/crc/332.html

http://www.pnas.org/content/111/17/6165.abstract

Bowers Pepper Festival:

http://www.pepperfestival.com/Welcome.html

Measuring Chili Pepper Heat:

http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H237/

Pepper Production and Preservation:

http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/vegetables/pepper-production

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fact-sheets/vegetable-gardening/growing-great-container-vegetables/peppers

http://extension.psu.edu/food/preservation/news/2012/colorful-peppers

http://extension.psu.edu/food/preservation/safe-methods/peppers

Yummy Blueberries and Raspberries Galore!

By Master Gardener Marianne McNiel

As I sit here eating some delicious blueberries on my high-fiber, whole-wheat cereal, I can say that there is nothing better than fresh blueberries and raspberries from one of our local farms.  Now is the time to look for these beauties at farm stands and farmers’ markets throughout the Lehigh Valley.

The blueberry plants grown on most of our local farms in the Lehigh Valley are known as northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum).  These blueberries are grown commercially in much of the Mid-Atlantic region of the United States. There are several varieties of highbush blueberries grown here in Pennsylvania. Some varieties will produce fruit well into September. In New England, a low-growing or lowbush blueberry is grown wild and commercially. If you have ever spent time in Maine during the summer months then you have probably sampled this smaller, sweet blueberry.

Raspberries are part of the Rubus genus, commonly known as brambles. Blackberries are also part of this genus, but the thornless variety of blackberry that is usually grown commercially cannot withstand our cold winters. Some local gardeners have had success with thorny or trailing blackberries but you might not see many of these growing at our local farms. On the other hand, raspberry production is common on many local farms and you will find them at your local farm stand or market. There are two types of raspberries: red and black. Yellow raspberries are a mutation of red and black while purple raspberries are a cross between red and black. However, 75% of raspberries grown in the US are red.

For the local farmer, blueberry and raspberry production are specialized skills with high stakes.  The initial investment in a planting is relatively high. Good management skills are needed to produce quality fruit, and substantial labor is required. Both plants require acidic, well-drained soils with regular applications of organic matter. Frequent mulching of plants is also recommended. Raspberry plants require trellising. Both raspberry and blueberry plants require pruning every year to increase the quality of the fruit. Raspberry plants require the most pruning since their canes (the part of the plants that produces the fruit) will die after each year’s production.  When properly cared for, the plants will produce fruit for many years.

If you are searching for some local berries then you may choose to find a farm where you can pick them yourself. This is a wonderful summer activity that I have enjoyed many times with my children.  I have included a link to a great website for locating local farms where you can pick berries.  The site is frequently updated but you may want to call first before venturing out to the farm to ensure the crop is available. We have had a cool spring so berry-picking dates may be a little later than normal.  Blueberries are usually available from late June until August. Raspberries are usually available from July until October.  After picking (or purchasing), raspberries should be eaten within a few days. Blueberries can last up to 14 days in your refrigerator, but they taste better when used within a few days.

If you want to sample blueberries in a festive atmosphere, the city of Bethlehem is host to a wonderful Blueberry Festival at Burnside Plantation.  This year, it runs from July 18th to 20th. Here you can sample homemade blueberry pies, strudel and blueberry swirl ice cream!

Blueberries and raspberries are delicious and in season locally. You can buy them at farm stands or markets, pick them or celebrate them at a fun festival! One additional benefit of eating blueberries and raspberries is that they are both high in nutrients and antioxidants. So your doctor may miss seeing you and your family if you eat more of these wonderful local berries. Go berries!

Pick-your-own farms in Eastern PA:

http://www.pickyourown.org/PAeast.htm

Bethlehem Blueberry Festival:

http://historicbethlehem.org/event/blueberry-festival-2014/

Highbush Blueberry Production

http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/fruits/highbush-blueberry-production

Raspberry Production:

http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/fruits/red-raspberry-production

Brambles:

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg/brambles

Prolong Your Harvest

By Meara Hayden, Penn State Extension Intern      

We are nearing the peak of summer, and you’ve probably got plenty of fruits and vegetables either ready to harvest or close to it. But you likely did not have happy, full plants in early spring, nor will you in late fall. It is often desirable to extend the growing season several weeks on each end, so you can have harvestable plants long after and before they are usually ripe.

Extending the growing season is a well-practiced art, one that has been around for hundreds of years. Simply covering the soil with a thick layer of mulch can help keep the plant’s roots warm and moist for longer. It is also helpful to overwinter plants, or to start seedlings inside.

Planning for a long growing season can take a lot of work, and you should be very familiar with your area’s microclimate. Many gardeners like to order seeds online before they are available in stores. You should be aware of the germination time and time to harvest. Late or early crops will often take longer to mature, and you may end up with plants that refuse to produce if you aren’t careful.

           

Cold frames protect greens from frost

If you’re planning on building a structure, you should consider greenhouses as well as hoop houses or floating row covers. With a greenhouse, you could have cool weather crops like kale, lettuce, and beets year round. Hoop houses allow you to plant the crop in the ground, instead of containers. They are usually made of plastic stretched over hoops made of metal or PVC piping, with enough room for the gardener to stand. The sides are rolled up during the day to allow for ventilation. They are cheaper than greenhouses, but usually don’t have heating, and they are non-permanent. Floating row covers are just cloth, like specially made remay or even a sheet, placed on small hoops, like half a hula hoop or bent wire. They “float” above the plants, keeping warm air and moisture in, and pests out.

           

To learn more about the many ways you can extend your growing season, and about the pros and cons of the different gardening structures, come to the workshop “Grow Longer: Extend the Growing Season,” part of the Lehigh Valley Backyard Homesteading Series. The workshop is at Red Cat Farm in Germansville, at 8:30 am on Saturday, July 12th. Come out and learn how you can have fresh produce late in the fall and early in the spring!

Register here: http://www.cvent.com/events/grow-longer-extending-the-growing-season/event-summary-b1ff05f04e0a430482c800cff53055bd.aspx 

Growing Healthy Tomatoes for Canning

By Meara Hayden, Penn State Extension Intern

While I love a good, ripe salad tomato, there is nothing better than having homegrown, homemade salsa or tomato sauce late in the winter. Tomatoes are high-acid foods, which makes them easy to can and keep for the dead of winter, when you’re just dying for something with flavor. But before you can start canning, you’ll have to grow healthy, happy tomatoes.

When purchasing your plants, ask for a determinant variety if you have canning in mind. That means that the tomatoes will get ripe all at once, instead of having a season-long crop, making processing and canning all the fruit easy. Make sure they’re planted in full sun, and far away from any source of weed killer, from your lawn or your neighbors. When you’re planting, strip all the blossoms off the plant and don’t put fertilizer directly in the planting hole, it will fry the roots. Make sure your stakes are in before the plant goes in, you don’t want to hurt their growing root system. It’s also a good idea to continue to strip the blossoms until the plant has enough foliage to support fruit.

Remember, there is no cure for late blight, only prevention. A fungicide containing copper should be applied early and often, and if one of your plants is infected, destroy it immediately. Late blight spreads very quickly.

Once you have buckets of ripe fruit, you’ll want to know how to can it. If you’re new to it all, check out Canning 101: a workshop with master gardeners, June 26, from 6-9pm, at Cedar Crest College. The workshop covers hot water bath canning, no pressure canner required. Learn to can high-acid foods like tomatoes, pickles, and other fruit. Register here: http://www.cvent.com/events/canning-101-water-bath-canning/event-summary-9532edc36c43400786e691dccacc23ff.aspx

Happy Canning!

Growing Hops

While some of my friends may turn up their noses, I absolutely love a hoppy beer, especially on a hot day.  Here are a few facts about the plant that produces such wonderfully citrusy and bitter flavors:

Hops are perennial plants with climbing stems, called bines, which can grow up to 20 or 30 feet long.  The bines die back each year and re-grow the following year. 

Hops are planted not by seed, but by planting rhizomes (thick underground stems that have roots and shoots growing from it).   Only rhizomes from female plants are used since the hops are harvested for their female cones.   

For decent yields, hops need to be trellised.  Backyard growers can make do with a shorter trellis, a side of a garage or a chimney.  Most hop farmers use an overhead trellis system, which consists of 15-foot-high poles spaced every 5 plants.  The poles are connected by overhead wire cables that run both down and across the rows.  On average, hop farmers have approximately 55 poles per acre. 

Large acreages of hops are mechanically harvested with specialized equipment.  Small acreages are generally hand-harvested by removing individual cones as they mature utilizing a ladder or a cherry picker.  The bines could also be cut, pulled down and harvested all at once.

In 2013, Washington state produced about 80% of the U.S. hop crop.  Across the country, there were 35,244 acres in hops yielding a harvest of 69,343,900 pounds!

Grow Your Own: Want to learn to grow your own hops or brew your own beer?  Join us at  Funk Brewing Company on June 7^th from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. for our Crafting Beer 101 Workshop.  For more information or to register, visit http://www.cvent.com/events/crafting-beer-101/event-summary-760baa251fc147afab34abafbf44a24e.aspx

Sources: http://www.usahops.org/userfiles/image/1388461395_National%20Hop%20Report-NASS%2012-13.pdf

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/CCD/introsheets/hops.pdf

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/hg_garden_2006-06.pdf

Cool, Clear Water: Irrigation

With lots of young plants in the ground and a few consecutive days of warm, sunny weather the past few weeks, I’ve been making the most of my 3 rain barrels to irrigate my garden.  My irrigation system is a bit archaic – I fill up a watering can and water plant by plant, row by row.  It takes a lot of time and I know there are more sophisticated systems out there (farmers certainly don’t water plants individually).  One day I’ll upgrade, but for now, my water brigade works just fine for my garden.

Most vegetable farmers use drip or trickle irrigation to water their crops.  In a nut shell, drip irrigation consists of a number of hoses transporting water to drip lines, which are thin-walled, perforated polyethylene tubes.  Water is pumped through the lines, which rest along plant roots, and slowly seeps into the ground.  Drip irrigation is an extremely efficient system since water is targeted to the roots and not lost to evaporation.  Farmers can also use this system to apply liquid fertilizers.    The disadvantage is that it takes a considerable amount of initial set up and installation time.  Some farmers, such as sweet corn growers, use traveling gun systems, which consist of a big sprinkler mounted on a wheeled cart.  The cart is then pulled by a cable through the fields.   This type of irrigation makes sense for much larger plots, but a considerable amount of water is lost to evaporation and never makes it to the plant roots, since the water is intercepted by leaves.

So where do farmers source their water? Some farmers may be lucky enough to have a pond or a perennial stream to pump water from.  If they don’t have a water feature on their property, they could use a fire hydrant with permission from their local Water Authority or install a well.  Either of those options could be quite costly, so they’ll need to do the math to balance water costs and harvest profits. 

Save Water in Your Own Yard! If you’d like to build your own rain barrel to water your plants, join Penn State Extension Master Gardeners and Master Watershed Stewards on Wednesday, May 21^st at the Seed Farm in Emmaus.  You can choose between 3 sessions: 5:30 – 6:15 p.m.; 6:15 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.; and 7:00 – 7:45 p.m..  In this workshop, volunteers will guide you through the process of constructing your own, fully functioning rain barrel. The workshop fee of $40 includes a plastic 55-gallon drum and all the necessary parts and assistance to build your own barrel. The workshop also includes a tour of The Seed Farm, an organization that is growing new farmers by providing them with training, equipment, and land which eliminates the top three barriers to farm entry and opens the doors for a new generation of farmers.  To register, visit http://www.cvent.com/events/rain-barrel-workshops/event-summary-457a1fac8ebc4716b8056cb04f5ba325.aspx

Sources:

http://extension.psu.edu/business/start-farming/news/2013/irrigation-for-vegetables

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/plasticulture/technologies/drip-irrigation

http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/horticultural-production-options/drip-irrigation-for-vegetable-production

http://www.clemson.edu/irrig/equip/Trav.htm

Local Asparagus at a Farm Near You!

By Master Gardener Marianne McNiel

I love asparagus. As a child, I refused to eat this vegetable that my mother loved, but after years of trying she would be happy to hear that it is one of my favorite vegetables, along with those little cabbages called Brussels sprouts. I can usually find asparagus at a local farmers' market from late April into June. This year with the cold spring weather, you may not see it until well into May. Here are some interesting facts about this great cool-season vegetable.

Asparagus has been eaten as a vegetable and used for medicinal purposes for thousands of years.  It is thought to be native to Russia, the Mediterranean and British Isles.  It was first cultivated by the Romans, and the oldest surviving recipe book has a recipe with asparagus! It was brought to America by the early colonists, but it was not grown commercially until the 1850s.

Asparagus officinalis is a perennial vegetable and one of a few vegetables that are monocots or single seed leaf (cotyledon). Corn is also a monocot, but it is a grain and not a vegetable. Asparagus used to be classified as a member of the lily family along with onions and garlic. In 2003, the lily family was split and asparagus is now classified in its own family, Asparagaceae.  No matter how we classify it, it still tastes great steamed, grilled or stir-fried.

Green, purple and white asparagus are all grown in Pennsylvania. Purple asparagus spears are a newer variety and white spears are produced by removing light from the spears when they first appear. Our Pennsylvania farms produce about 500 acres of asparagus valued at $2.5 million dollars. However, Oceana County, Michigan claims to be the Asparagus Capital of the World and the National Asparagus Festival is held there every June.  Asparagus festivals are also held in several places in California. Presently, the United States is the largest importer of asparagus, but asparagus fresh from our local farm field is fresher and tastes best!

For a farmer, asparagus is an investment crop because the plants are not fully mature for 5 years, but the plants will last up to 20 years.  Asparagus crowns will rise up as they grow and exposed crowns will die. For this reason, asparagus is planted in trenches or furrows that are 6 to 8 inches deep. Mature asparagus plants are harvested for 6 to 7 weeks. The spears are cut when they are about 7 inches long and a diameter of at least 5/16 of an inch. Select spears at your farm stand or market with slight purple tips that are not wilted. Asparagus should be refrigerated immediately after harvest. You can keep asparagus fresh in your refrigerator in a moist towel or with the tips pointed up in a cup of cold water. Spears will last 7 to 14 days in your refrigerator.

Asparagus spears are loaded with nutrients.  They are a great source of fiber, folate and vitamins A, C, E and K.  What about that smell after eating asparagus? The smell is caused by our bodies converting asparagusic acid into sulfur-containing compounds. Scientists have recently learned that all individuals do not experience this strange odor after eating asparagus. It is in our genes to either process asparagus a certain way and to be able to detect the smell, the asparagus gene. So mind your mothers and eat that delicious local asparagus. Find out if you have the asparagus gene!

Sources:

Asparagus Production, Penn State Extension:http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/vegetables/asparagus-production

Michigan Asparagus and Festival:

http://www.asparagus.org/

http://www.nationalasparagusfestival.org/

Asparagus and Urine Smell:

http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/why-asparagus-makes-your-urine-smell-49961252/

Colorful Carrots!

By Miles Necker, Master Watershed Steward

I’m always up for trying to plant a few flowers or a vegetable or two. Though I never seem to be successful, it is nice to try. Growing up I have found myself to almost have a brown thumb (something I’m trying to correct hanging out with the Master Gardeners). The only thing I have managed to keep alive any length of time is a Christmas cactus, and that is simply because cacti are virtually impossible to kill. So this year when my family started planting their garden my mother asked if I wanted to use part of one of the raised beds I had installed, turning our small front lawn into a series of raised beds with barely enough room to mow between. I figured ‘why not?’ and so began to consider what I wanted to plant. I obviously wanted something easy to grow. The only other condition I had is I wanted to be able to eat whatever I planted. Personally I don’t like just having flowers everywhere, I prefer my plants to have a use (apologies to my youngest sister, who lives for picking flowers and filling our house with them).

After much thought I finally chose my vegetable: carrots! Not only does the British military use them to see at night (World War II joke), but they are just good to eat, overall. You can cook them, yank them out of the ground and eat them, caramelize them, and pretty much anything you could want to do! Perfect! I had picked my vegetable. But now to go about learning how to not kill them and still end up with luscious carrots for my next salad.

This was a moment I realized: I may be in over my head planting anything at all, but still I soldiered on. I decided to learn everything I could before planting, and what follows are the Carrot Planting Basics.

Carrots are best planted just as spring begins to ‘spring’, around right now (mid-April). If you plant them much later you end up with shriveled carrots due to overexposure to heat. Plant them too early and the same thing happens due to not enough heat. So, they like to be planted when it is still cool, before the last frost date.

As far as soil goes, it is best to put them in loose, near neutral soil, as is common in a raised bed. If you’re going to plant them in the ground around your house make sure to break the soil up as they prefer a more aerated soil. If you’re going to fertilize your glorious taproots, it is best to use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer that is high in potassium, though they should do fine on their own.

Once you have your fertilizer and soils all sorted out, it’s time to plant the carrots. Dig a trench about ¼”. If you want multiple rows make sure their about 1’ apart from one another. It is very important to make sure that the soil around the carrots does not crust. To avoid this, make sure to keep slightly moist or cover the seeds with fine compost.

Throughout the growing season make sure to keep the soil around the carrots moist, but be absolutely sure to not overwater them as it can lead to nasty bloated carrots. If you start to notice the orange tops of the root poking out of the soil, cover it up. If left, the top will turn green and you can no longer eat it… it will affect the taste.

As soon as your carrots reach about finger sized you can start harvesting them if you wish. While it is perfectly fine to let them grow into gargantuan taproots of glory, the smaller carrots will tend to be juicier and more tender. If you mulch the soil well you can even keep carrots in the ground close to winter. Out of the ground they are best stored in a moist environment that is near freezing temperature.

Following the above directions, I am sure someone even like me can pull off growing carrots, and I’m going to try. As I write this I am glancing over at the seeds I’m going to be planting this weekend and dreaming of the delicious caramelized carrots I will be eating in the future.

Don’t have time or space to grow your own?  Support Your Farmer!

LEHIGH: Bleiler’s Produce Patch in Breinigsville

NORTHAMPTON: Ray of Sun Farm in Easton

BERKS:  Old Earth Farm in Oley Valley

BUCKS: Palovchak’s Produce in Doylestown

Manure: Spring is in the Air

By Master Gardener Sue Kowalchuk

While the appearance of robins is often cited as the harbinger of spring, I would argue that the application of manure on the farm fields is the true indication that spring is around the corner.  During this year’s unrelenting cold and snowy winter in eastern Pa, it was the sight of brown on the white, rolling fields that comforted me that winter was coming to end.

Although manure is a commonly used soil amendment, the type used, the amount, and the timing of the application are critical factors in ensuring that it will be effective and safe.  Both fresh and composted cattle, poultry, and horse manure are typically utilized on farms and/or in home gardens. Application can improve soil health and structure, as well as provide nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K); essential nutrients for plant growth. The amount of N, P, and K contained in each type of manure varies.  The best type to use will depend upon availability, percent of each nutrient in the specific manure and nutrient needs of the plants being grown. Consequently, soil testing to determine deficiencies and manure testing to determine nutrient content are good practices to guarantee success.  The amount applied is also important. Too little will result in insufficient nutrients, too much could leach into the groundwater, rivers, or streams and/or negatively impact plant growth.

Fresh manure of all types has a higher nitrogen content, with poultry having the highest. Some caution, however, is advised if choosing to apply fresh manure.  Not only can fresh manure contain weed seeds (horse manure is the worse offender), but pathogens, such as e.coli, or salmonella can be present.  In addition, the higher nitrogen levels can burn or kill plants. For these reasons, it is recommended that it be applied no later than 3 months before planting, and up to 4 months for crops that come in contact with the soil. For the home gardener, the safest practice is to apply in the fall, or consider composted manure.

Composted manure has been aged for several months and could also be mixed with other organic materials such as animal bedding. The overall levels of some nutrients are lower, but the heat generated in the compost pile and length of time exposed greatly reduces the likelihood of weed seed and pathogens.  This makes it a good choice for use later in the spring.

Using manure is a good way to improve soil health and increase plant yields while simultaneously “ recycling” animal waste.  Paying attention to type, amount and timing will provide you with the desired results and enable you to enjoy a bountiful harvest. That is, as long as the bugs, fungus, etc. are under control, but that is another story for another blog.

If you happen to notice the appearance of brown on the white snow or muddy fields, or a less than pleasant odor while driving past the farms, remember that it is a sign of spring and local fresh fruits and vegetables are almost around the corner.

Resources

http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/pnw0533/pnw0533.pdf

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/cfiv/homeowners/000513.html

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/fruit-vegetable/using-manure-and-compost/ 

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/242.html

Spring Flowers!

By Master Gardener Amy Weis

 

The greenhouses are starting to fill up at Richards Gardens 

With the Philadelphia Flower show and the snow (hopefully) ending the other week many people are starting to contemplate the flowers and plants they will be adding to their gardens this spring.  It may still be in the 30’s in the Lehigh Valley but the perennial and flower plant farmers in our area have been hard at work for the last several months; preparing and growing the plugs, bare rooted plants and seeds which will become full, bountiful and blooming plants by the time we purchase them in April or May.

We have a lot to choose from in the Lehigh Valley as we decide which plants to put in our gardens.  However, the plants we will eventually buy will fall into one of the following categories.

Woody plants are plants that have woody stems that persist above ground even through seasons that don't favor growth, due to low precipitation or temperatures. Woody plants include mainly trees and shrubs.

Annuals are plants that grow from seed to flower in one year and then die. Usually you buy annuals in the spring and know they will die in the fall.

Common annuals include marigolds, petunias, geraniums, impatiens, and zinnias.

Biennials are plants that require two years to complete their life cycle. First season growth results in a small rosette of leaves near the soil surface. During the second season's growth stem elongation, flowering and seed formation occur followed by the entire plant's death. Common biennials include foxglove, hollyhock, and pansies, black-eyed Susans and Queen Anne’s lace.

Perennials are plants that persist for many growing seasons. Generally the top portion of the plant dies back each winter and regrows the following spring from the same root system (e.g. Purple Coneflower). Many perennial plants keep their leaves year round. Common Pennsylvania perennials include peonies, sedum, asters, coreopsis and phlox.

When I begin my spring search for annuals and perennials, one of my first stops each year is the perennial nursery of the dynamic mother - daughter duo of Emma and Roxie Richards of Richards Gardens, off a quiet back road in Quakertown, Pa. Emma Richards has been growing and selling plants for 35 years, starting with field grown pansies in the 1970’s. Her farm has been in the family for many years belonging first to her grandfather, John Roth, in the latter part of the 19^th century. Emma and Roxie’s customers come from the entire tri-state area and include grandchildren of Emma’s original customers. Their only real form of marketing for thirty-five years has been word of mouth and it seems to have worked quite well.

The Richards, along with other perennial and plant farmers in the valley, are now in the process of putting out plugs and bare roots in their greenhouses and starting their potted seeds. The pictures below are of their greenhouses now. Look for the same greenhouse pots in a few weeks in this blog to see the plants you and others in the Valley may be buying come spring.

Learn to Grown Your Own: Every home gardener will find something of interest at Workshops for the Gardener!  Workshops for the Gardener is scheduled for Saturday, April 12^th from 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. at the PPL Walbert Training Center.  The event kicks off with a lively discussion about growing the very best heirloom tomatoes with expert Steve Bogash, one of our own Penn State Extension Horticulture Educators. Choose from sessions on home garden topics taught by our Master Gardening volunteers. Topics include:  Growing Great Cut Flowers; Year-Round Garden Maintenance; Ticks, Mosquitoes, and West Nile Virus; Ten Plants That Changed the World; African Violets; and Shade Gardening.  For the final session, participants will have a chance  to choose a demonstration to observe and interact with the instructor. Demonstration topics include: Herb Gardening, Rain Barrels, and Garden Photography.  You can peruse the garden fair to find books, plants, jewelry, soaps and more for purchase.  The conference will also feature a silent auction to benefit the Master Gardener program. The conference costs $50 with lunch included.  To register online go to http://www.cvent.com/events/workshops-for-the-gardener/event-summary-c76210525d4e4b04b6d8a170ec0a8e84.aspx

References:

aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu  

Woody plants of Utah, Renee Van Buren

Herbaceous Perennial Production, A guide from Propagation to Marketing, Dr. Leonard Perry – University of Vermont

www.uky.edu/Ag/NewCrops/introsheets/nurserybiz.pdf

Long Winter on the Farm

By Master Gardener Marianne McNeil

This winter has been unusually cold with major snow storms causing difficulties for all of us. I am tired of hearing about the polar vortex and will rejoice this year when spring finally arrives. This cold and snowy winter was predicted in the Old Farmers Almanac! How has this unusually cold and snowy weather affected our local farmers?

In the winter, most farmers try to accomplish the tasks that they have little time for during the growing season.  They inspect and repair their farm equipment and tractors. They check their inventory and determine what needs to be ordered for the next season. This is the time when they do soil tests to determine if they need any additional fertilizers and nutrients applied. They also complete much of their paperwork during the winter months and plan on what crops to grow next year based on pricing. The difficult winter weather has certainly slowed our local farmers' progress on some of these tasks. Our local farmers have added snow removal to their list of chores. On some farms, drifting snow can make snow removal a daily chore!  

Local dairy farmers have no rest during the winter months. They still have to feed and care for their cows and milk them twice a day.  This is an especially hard winter for dairy farmers since roads must be cleared to get feed and to transport their milk to market. Any farmer that cares for cattle and livestock has also been experiencing difficulties with all this snow.

In the winter, farmers will also have to contend with some damage from ice storms to fruit trees and berry bushes.  Also, some crops are planted in the fall as a cover crop or some are perennial   like alfalfa. These plants may heave out of the ground when there are numerous freeze and thaw cycles in the winter. The plants may be damaged or die completely. This means less natural fertilizer or produce and added cost to the farmer.

This winter, trucks have deposited tons of rock salt on our roads and our soil.  Salt damage to plants can be a problem to both farmers and homeowners. Salt adsorbs water and causes dehydration at the roots of plants. Salt ions also combine with important nutrients in the soil that plants need, making them unavailable. Salt ions can also build up in the plant to toxic levels causing damage to buds, leaf tips and young twigs. Near roads, you might observe corn or soybean plants that are stunted with brown leaves. This is probably caused by salt damage. This damage may be present for several growing seasons after a snowy winter like this one. Penn State Extension recommends calcium magnesium acetate (CMA) as an alternative to rock salt to avoid plant damage.

It may seem that farmers have it easy in the long winter months, but they are still working hard to bring us the fresh food we love. They have to contend with snow removal, feeding livestock and possible plant damage. This snowy winter, their work has been more difficult just like ours, so let's hope that soon the snow shoveling will be over!


Sources:
Old Farmers Almanac:
http://m.almanac.com/weather/longrange

Winter Alfalfa Survival

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/forages/management/winter-alfalfa-survival

Salt damage to plants:
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/green-industry/news/2013/damage-from-de-icers

Alternatives to salt for de-icing:
http://extension.psu.edu/natural-resources/water/discovery-watersheds/news/2014/sidewalk-salt-and-stormwater

Counting Sheep

Occasionally when I have a difficult time falling asleep, I do try to “count sheep”.  It never really helps much, but it’s a pleasant thought, picturing sheep jumping one by one over a white split rail fence in a pastoral setting.   Sheep are not as popular to raise as cows and pigs are, but their popularity is increasing, especially with smaller operations.  Sheep (and goats for that matter) are efficient foragers; they get a larger portion of their daily nutrients from foraging than do most other animals, which helps to cut down feed costs.  They also eat and control most weeds.

According to the USDA, there were 86,000 sheep in Pennsylvania in 2012.  Sheep are raised for meat, milk (for cheese), breeding stock, and wool; however, current markets for wool are weak and likely only profitable if the wool is directly marketed for crafts.  At one time wool was the major source of income for sheep producers, but due to the decline in wool prices, many sheep producers are turning to raising hair sheep, or “naked” sheep, which do not have wooly coats and thus, eliminate or reduce the cost of shearing.

Want to learn more about raising sheep?  Come to Sheep Day!  Penn State Extension is holding a training session on Saturday, April 12^th from 10 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. at the Delaware County 4-H Farm & Educational Center in Newtown Square.  The workshop costs $20 for youth and $35 for adults with lunch included.  For more information or to register, visit http://www.cvent.com/events/sheep-day/event-summary-99ec79a3d4214185b3545fa1bc9aa059.aspx.  The registration deadline is April 4^th and space is limited.

     

Sources:

http://umaine.edu/publications/2186e/

Support Your Farmer:

Berks County: Winterside Sheep Farm

Bucks County: Ivy Acres

Lehigh Valley: Suyundalla Farms

Alpacas: Super Cute & Curious

By Meara Hayden, Penn State Extension Intern

I have always had an interest in unusual animals. The alpaca specifically captured my imagination. I have several pairs of incredibly warm and soft alpaca wool socks. There are plenty of alpaca farmers in our area, and I visited Harley Hill Farms in Quakertown to find out more about local Alpaca farming.

Photo taken at Harley Hill Farm

The farm is owned by Bill and Lori Oraschin. I spoke with Bill while standing amidst his female and young alpacas. The animals were incredibly friendly and tame. They came up and snuffled my hands, wondering if I had food. Their hair was very soft and thick. They didn’t seem bothered by my presence in the least. The alpacas possessed an innate intelligence that one does not expect from sheep or cows. They are interesting, curious animals.

Alpacas are raised primarily for the soft fiber they produce. They are sheared once a year, usually in May or June. White alpacas have the softest fiber, measured in microns, but softness is hereditary. So you could breed a softer brown alpaca if one of its parents was white. The young alpacas are called crias, and unlike their relative the llama, alpacas are not pack animals. Llamas can be used to guard the alpacas, and will herd them to safety and may fight to the death on their behalf. Alpacas require regular trims of their top knots and toenails, which the farmer can learn to do themselves to save on vet costs. You can keep about 5-7 alpacas per acre, although some keep as many as 10 per acre.

When an alpaca is brought to a farm show, about 60% of the score is based on the quality of their fleece, and about 40% is based on their proportions. A well-proportioned alpaca’s neck will be about as long as their back.

They are primarily cold weather animals, and barns do not require heating in the winter, but they will need cooling in the summer. The alpacas at Harley Hill Farm enjoy numerous fans, and the occasional hose spray under their bellies. They eat a mixture of hay and a grain mixture, with vitamin supplements. 

The fiber harvested from the Alpacas is sent to be turned into yarn, which is then either sold as is, or woven into hats, gloves, or rugs. The products made from alpaca fiber tend to be softer and more waterproof than those made from sheep’s wool. It also tends to be warmer, and hypoallergenic, due to the fiber’s hollow strands and lack of lanolin (a waxy substance found in sheep’s wool).

Most people who choose to raise alpacas must be willing to put in a big time commitment to keeping these animals happy. But their gentle softness may just make it worthwhile.

Resources: http://extension.psu.edu/animals/camelids 

Support Your Farmer:

Berks County: Charming Forge Alpacas in Womelsdorf

Bucks County: Harley Hill Farm in Quakertown

Lehigh County: Kraussdale Alpacas in East Greenville

Northampton County: Purple Haze Alpacas in Bangor

From French-fried to Twice Baked: the History of the Versatile Potato

By Meara Hayden, Penn State Extension Intern

Storage potatoes are one of the few veggies you picked up from your local CSA that are still around in the winter, and will continue to last until spring. They are a staple of our diets, and can be found growing in huge monoculture farms in Idaho, or small CSA style organic farms here in Pennsylvania. It is one of the most widely grown and consumed crops in the world. But how did this starchy tuber become something we expect from our local markets, and readily consume at our dinner tables?

Most people, when asked about the origin of the potato, will reference Ireland. The Irish seem to have a monopoly on the image of the potato. But the tuber didn’t come from Ireland, or anywhere in Europe at all, and the Europeans unwise handling of it is what lead to the great potato famine, and the beginning of the pesticide industry we know today.

            The potato is found naturally growing in the Andes, and most wild varieties are poisonous, especially in their raw form. Wild vicunas (wild relatives of the llama) will lick clay before consuming any part of the potato plant, because the clay sticks to the harmful substances and passes safely through the animal’s system. The native people of the Andes (Including the beginnings of what would be known as the Aztec civilization) emulated this behavior, and ate potatoes with clay powder. Over time, they selectively bred certain varieties to be completely safe to eat. In addition to eating them mashed, boiled, and baked, these ancient people would leave sliced potatoes out to freeze overnight, then dry during the day. The continuing freezing and thawing process produced long lasting, if bland, food that sustained the Aztec armies.

            The Aztec people grew a huge variety of potato plants, with every village having ten or twelve diverse varieties. And a village relatively near, but at a different altitude, would grow another ten to twelve varieties completely different from the first village. When the people of the Andes planted their potatoes, they would use the seeds that came off the top of the plant. This ensured that their potatoes remained diverse and resistant to disease.

            When the Europeans came to South America and brought the potato back for planting, they replanted using a “seed potato.” They would just take a potato from a mature plant, and put it back in the ground, growing a new plant. This method creates a plant that is genetically identical to its mother plant. When the potato eventually caught on in Europe, their entire fields were a monoculture. This made the new crop especially susceptible to disease, because the bacteria would not have to adapt to hop from plant to plant at all. This problem was not apparent until Europe, and especially Ireland, had a complete dependence on the potato for food. By the late 1790’s, about 40 percent of the Irish ate potatoes as their only solid food. In potato country, a 2,000 mile band in northern Europe where potatoes thrive, famine had almost disappeared.

            It was at this time that disaster struck the farmers of northern Europe and America, where the potato had been brought as a staple. They were using guano, imported from South America, for fertilizer. The guano brought disease with it. Phytophthora infestans, a type of water mold, is what caused the great potato famine. By the time the symptoms appear as purple to brown spots on the leaves, it is too late to save the plant. The first blight struck in 1845, and did not cease until 1852, after it had wiped out more than a million Irish.

            But the first potato blight was not as industrially important as the second, which came in the form of the colorado potato beetle. These black and orange bugs frustrated American farmers beginning in about 1860. Nothing seemed to kill them. One desperate farmer threw some leftover green paint on his plants. This worked. The bright green pigment was paris green, which is made mostly of copper and arsenic. Farmers began mixing it with water or dusting it as a dry powder.

The use of paris green in agriculture interested chemists. Are there other chemicals that could solve agricultural problems? In the 1880’s a french chemist discovered a solution of copper sulfate and lime would destroy Phytophthora infestans. If farmers sprayed this solution along with paris green, they would be rid of both the blight and the beetle. Potatoes marked the beginning of the modern pesticide industry.

Late blight and the Colorado potato beetle are still challenges for growers today, but over the years growers have learned how to manage them by growing resistant varieties and carefully monitoring pests.  Today, the United States produces more than 4.2 billion pounds of potatoes annually on around 1.1 million acres!

Support your local potato farmer!

Bucks – None Such Farms

Lehigh - Lichtenwalner Farms

Northampton - Clear Spring Farm

Berks – Burkholder Farm Market

Resources:

Smithsonian Magazine “How the Potato Changed the World” http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/how-the-potato-changed-the-world-108470605/?page=6

Penn State Extension “Potato Production” http://extension.psu.edu/business/ag-alternatives/horticulture/vegetables/potato-production

Check this out if you’re looking to plant potatoes in your garden in the spring!        

Grow Your Veggies on a Local Farm

By Master Gardener Marianne McNeil

Fresh vegetables from your garden, especially tomatoes, often taste better than the ones you buy in a grocery store.  There is some evidence that vegetables that do not sit on a supermarket shelf and are eaten sooner, direct from a garden, have higher nutritional value.  Also, knowing how your vegetables have been grown and where they come from is important to all of us.  Many of us have started home vegetable gardens to have fresh produce right at our fingertips.

As a gardener, I recognize that there are some difficulties in growing your own vegetables in your backyard. First and foremost is having the space necessary. If you want to feed a family of four, the Old Farmer’s Almanac suggests that a well-planned garden should be about 10 feet x 16 feet.  If you live in the city, backyard space is at a premium. You may need your backyard space for your children or for your dog. Penn State Extension recommends that your vegetable garden should have at least 6 hours per day of sunlight, with 8 to 10 hours, being ideal so if you have some large shade trees then your yard might not be right for growing. Another limitation is having the time in your busy life to devote to growing vegetables, and gardening also requires expensive tools that may not be available to you. Your knowledge of correct garden practices and pest management may also be a factor in your decision to start a garden (Of course, your extension office can provide support here).  Finally, you may have physical limitations that prevent you from gardening.  All these factors may prevent you from growing enough vegetables for you and your family in your backyard. However, there are alternatives.

One alternative to backyard gardening that will provide you and your family with fresh vegetables (and sometimes fruit, meats and cheeses) all year and help our local farmers is a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program.  In a previous blog, our Master Gardener Coordinator, Erin Fredrick, described CSA programs.  These programs are becoming popular in our area. Now is a great time to investigate them and find out if they would be a good fit for you and your family. Winter is the time when many programs are calling for new members.

In a CSA program, you will contract with a local farmer to grow the nutritious vegetables that you love!  You do this by purchasing “shares” in the program. The planning takes place in the winter before the farmer orders seeds or starts seedlings in a greenhouse. The farmer can plan in advance how much of each vegetable is needed for the members of the CSA.  The farmer’s risk is reduced because you are providing the “capital” or money upfront for growing the vegetables. You are also accepting some risk if a certain crop is greatly affected by local growing conditions, pests or disease. However, when you plant a backyard garden, you are also putting in money upfront and you have the same risks.  Local farmers are more experienced in planning and dealing with garden problems, and vegetables produced locally do not include the costly price of shipping.  In the long run, a CSA may be a less costly option for you, and you will also connect with a fine local farmer!

Our local CSA programs vary greatly. Some CSA farmers only grow certain types of produce. Others provide a host of vegetables and some fruit choices. Some local CSAs provide certified organic produce while others use integrated pest management to reduce their use of chemical herbicides and pesticides.  It can be expensive to obtain full organic certification so many small farms do grow their produce chemical-free and sustainably without this expense.  Since local farms are family owned, they are careful about the chemicals they use. Remember, their family is eating the same produce! Some local farms have spring, summer, fall and even winter CSA programs. Others only focus on one or two growing seasons.

Here is a list of questions that you might ask the local farmer before committing to a CSA:

·         What do you grow? Do you specialize?

·         How do you grow your produce? 

·         What is your growing period or season? Start and end dates?

·         Is the produce delivered? If not, what is the location and time for pick-up?

·         How much produce? Is there a minimum amount for the program? Is there a fixed amount?

·         How is payment handled? All upfront? Quarterly? Seasonally?

·         How do you resolve problems if produce is not as expected?

Want to find a CSA near you?   Penn State Extension has created Google Map of CSAs in Pennsylvania.  Click here and enter your address to find a nearby farm.

So if you do not have the inclination to grow vegetables in your backyard, try joining a CSA. You and your family will learn more about local agriculture and eat nutritious and tasty vegetables!

Sources:

Local Food Systems, Economic Report from the USDA:

http://agmarketing.extension.psu.edu/ComFarmMkt/PDFs/local_food_system.pdf

What is a CSA?

http://blog.lehighvalleylive.com/local-agriculture/2013/07/what_is_a_csa.html

Planning a Vegetable Garden:

http://www.almanac.com/vegetable-garden-planning-for-beginners

http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf